Sunlight slips through openings in the limestone at Los Tres Ojos, and the cave lakes below glow blue or green, depending on their depth. One lake, La Nevera, never sees the sun and stays the coldest. Nearby, the Faro a Colón lays its concrete cross across a lawn, built to beam a cross of light into the night sky.
Beyond the monuments lies a big residential city east of the Ozama. Avenida Venezuela fills with music after dark, and the Acuario Nacional sits by the sea on Avenida España. It stays warm all year, drier from December to April. A Local Friend knows when to reach the caves before the heat and when to linger by the sea at dusk.







