A rose window crowns the white cathedral beside the Higuamo River, yet it lets in no light at all, since it is purely decorative. More small surprises follow. The Guloyas, Cocolo dancers whose tradition sits on a UNESCO list, act out David and Goliath in the street, and the Christmas toast is guavaberry, a spiced berry liqueur from the English-speaking islands.
Families stroll the renovated Malecón by the Caribbean, and winter nights belong to baseball at Estadio Tetelo Vargas. Expect heat all year, driest around March and wettest from late summer into fall. A Local Friend can sit you down at a family table for guavaberry and Cocolo stories no menu lists.
