The Bhagirathi rushes past Uttarkashi grey-green and cold, fresh from the glaciers above Gangotri. Pilgrims step down to bathe at Manikarnika Ghat, a short walk from the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, and a smaller stream, the Assi Ganga, slips into the big river just upstream of town.
Away from the riverbank, climbers in training head out from the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering, and trekkers stock up for the lakes and meadows in the hills around. Summers are mild, the July and August monsoon brings heavy rain, and winter nights turn frosty. A Local Friend can take your list of temples, ghats and trailheads and shape it into a day that makes sense, river at dawn and market lanes by dusk.






