An old anchor rests on the grass at the Lander Brothers Anchorage, and up the slope Mungo Park House, once the seat of a colonial trading company, still faces the Niger. Fishing canoes work the same wide water the traders once sailed. The main road carries the name of Nnebisi, the founder who, legend says, looked at this hill and declared he had chosen well.
Away from the river, Asaba is a young capital of wide roads, film crews shooting Nollywood scenes and loud crowds at Stephen Keshi Stadium. It stays hot all year, with heavy rain from March to October. A Local Friend walks beside you, matching your stride and telling the stories behind each street.





