Around noon, crocodiles haul themselves onto the banks of Agulu Lake, a short drive from Awka, and doze beside water turtles. Nobody fishes here. The reptiles are sacred, and their custodian lives in a hut by the water, feeding them and trading legends with visitors.
Awka itself is a capital of offices and lecture halls, where Nnamdi Azikiwe University students fill the Ifite side and masquerades take over Zik's Avenue each May. Its blacksmiths were once famous across the region. Dry months bring a dusty harmattan haze, and heavy rains run from April to October. A Local Friend can link the lake, the market and campus cafés into one day that makes sense.





