Narrow lanes climb through the old quarters toward Mapo Hall, past compounds roofed in iron rusted a deep brown. Down the slope the streets straighten out in Dugbe, where banks line up beneath Cocoa House and traders spread their goods along the pavement.
Further north, Bodija mixes leafy estate homes with a huge market where canteens serve amala and bean soup at lunch, and families picnic under tall trees at Agodi Gardens. It stays warm all year, with long rains from March to October and dusty harmattan air in the dry months. A Local Friend can bring you into their own corner of town, where the street knows their name and the nearest canteen knows their order.
