Tree-lined banks dip into a deep, grassy ditch, and a few steps off a busy road the city goes quiet. This is the Benin Moat, earthworks dug by hand around the old royal capital. Space opens up again at King's Square, the wide circle everyone calls Ring Road, close to the Oba's palace.
Beyond the center, bronze casters on Igun Street still use the lost-wax method of their ancestors, and Ogba Zoo spreads through forest on the city's edge. The air stays hot and humid all year, with heavy rains from spring into autumn. A Local Friend can lead you to the shady corner they love most and tell you the story behind it.





