Keke tricycles nose through the traffic, three passengers on the back bench and a sack of new sandals on someone's lap. Minibuses fill up at the motor park, coaches leave for every corner of Nigeria, and much of what moves here was made here.
Beyond Ariaria Market, the city has a quieter side, from the wooden colonial house of the National Museum of Colonial History to the clear Azumini Blue River a short drive south. The air stays warm and humid, with rains from March to November. A Local Friend keeps the plan loose, so a workshop visit can turn into lunch or a river afternoon.
