A governor's house built in Glasgow and shipped over in pieces still stands on the hill above the Calabar River, and its wooden rooms are now the Old Residency Museum. Down the slope, Duke Town grew from the Efik settlement of Akwa Akpa, and Ekpe masquerades still come out each December for the city's festivals.
Beyond the old quarter, Watt Market sells everything from live chickens to wax-print cloth, and family celebrations call for a pot of edikang ikong. The air stays warm and humid all year, with rain for about nine months and a short dry spell from December to February. A Local Friend keeps step beside you through it all, telling the stories as you go.





