Late in the day the Narmada turns copper below the old fort hill, and the iron trusses of the Golden Bridge glow against a pale sky. Down at Furja, the former harbor, people sit on the old quay with paper cones of roasted peanuts and watch the river take on the last colors of the evening.
Away from the water, the temple lanes of Dandia Bazar and the carved doors of the old town keep the stories of a port that once traded with Rome. Summers run hot, the monsoon soaks July to September, and winter days are mild and dry. A Local Friend knows when to reach the ghats early and when to linger for sunset.
