Photograph Henderson Waves in the morning or after 7pm

First-timers often pick Chinatown as a base, with heritage streets, temples and hawker food outside the door, mid-range rates and several MRT lines nearby. Marina Bay has the views but is expensive and quiet after dinner, and Orchard Road has little atmosphere after dark. For more character, Kampong Gelam has…

Many Singapore hotels show a room rate before the service charge and GST, so the final bill is higher than the headline price. Hotels may display prices without GST as long as they state the rate is subject to it. Before booking, ask for the all-inclusive total in writing and compare it across platforms. Hotel stays…

Every Ramadan, the streets around Wisma Geylang Serai fill with a bazaar of around 150 food stalls and 350 retail stalls in recent years, running until Hari Raya Aidilfitri. All the food is halal-certified or Muslim-friendly. It comes alive at night with the festive lights on, so go in the evening. Dates move with the…

In the seventh lunar month, around August and September, neighbourhood stages host getai song and variety shows that are free to watch. The front row is traditionally left empty for the spirits, so take a seat further back. Roadside offerings of food, incense and joss paper are best left alone: do not step over, touch…

Esplanade, the arts centre on Marina Bay, programmes free music, dance and community arts at its Concourse, mostly in the evenings. The DBS Foundation Outdoor Theatre hosts shows at weekends with the bay as a backdrop, and seats are first come, first served, so arrive early. Check the online What's On calendar for the…

This sprawling Little India department store sells groceries, imported snacks, luggage, watches, gold jewellery and appliances across basements and several levels. Prices are fixed, so bargaining does not work, and some items cost more than elsewhere, so compare a few on your phone. Large bags may be taken at the door…

The grass-covered roof of Marina Barrage gives a wide view of the Singapore skyline across the bay, and the breeze off the water makes it a favourite for kite flying. Bring a kite and wait for a gust instead of running. Weekends bring groups and families, so a weekday late afternoon is calmer. You can also walk or…

Bumboats to Pulau Ubin leave from Changi Point Ferry Terminal with no timetable. Each boat goes once it fills, usually about 12 people, so waits vary. Pay the boatman in cash and expect an extra fee for a bike. Rental bikes are in the village a short walk from the jetty. Bring water, repellent and cash for the day…