Morning light warms the yellow facade of the Cathedral of San Cristóbal on Plaza Boyacá, the colonial square at the heart of town. Toward the coast, the mood shifts to boats and terraces, as the canals of the Plaza Mayor complex fill with diners and music after dark.
Beyond the old town, the Neverí River curls through the city on its way to the sea, and boats head out to the islands of Mochima National Park. The climate is hot and semi-arid, dry from December to April and rainy from June to September. A Local Friend knows when to reach the plazas early, before the heat, and when to linger by the water until late.
