This country holds two moods. On the coast, mornings start early with salt in the air, music drifting from open doors and the sea a short walk away. Climb into the mountains and everything goes quiet, with wool jackets, steaming cups and fog settling over the fields. Between them lie wide plains where the horizon does most of the talking.
The weather is mostly tropical, with a wet season and a dry season, and the highlands stay cooler. Pack light layers. A Local Friend tells you when to go early and when to linger, so the beach, the mountain village and the long dinner each get their proper moment.
