You step through the gate of Anping Old Fort and find banyan roots wrapped around the last stretch of Dutch brick. A short ride inland, you climb the steps of Chihkan Tower, then drift into Shennong Street, where old merchant houses now sell handmade designs. Every few blocks you pass another temple, incense curling out of its doorway.
Beyond the old capital, mangrove channels form green tunnels near the coast, and the Garden Night Market fills with stalls and banners after dark. Winters are dry, mild and sunny, while summers turn hot, humid and wet. When your own list runs out, a Local Friend knows which noodle stall or temple courtyard should come next.



