A dholak thumps, a harmonium answers, and a ragini singer starts an old tale of love and honor in Haryanvi verse. Folk song runs deep around Rohtak, and the city's arts university carries the name of Dada Lakhmi Chand, the poet who made ragini famous. The same tunes bounce from phones as Haryanvi pop.
Beyond the music, the shops of Quila Road, the boats on Tilyar Lake and the monastery at Asthal Bohar fill a day. Summers are scorching and dry, the monsoon brings rain from July to September, and winters stay mild with chilly mornings. A Local Friend shapes that loose list into a day with a start, a middle and a good dinner.




