Every Thursday, Hindus, Muslims, Sikhs and Christians fill the courtyard of Bu Ali Shah Qalandar's dargah, where a poem painted in blue and gold runs along the wall. Outside, neighbors trade a quick "Ram Ram" before heading home.
Beyond the shrine, the Kabuli Bagh mosque that Babur built after the first battle stands in its walled garden, and Kala Amb marks the field of the third. Along the highway, shops stack jars of pachranga achaar, while the mills behind the city's weaving name turn old clothes into blankets. Summers run fiercely hot, monsoon rain arrives in July and winters turn cool. A Local Friend walks beside you, stopping whenever you want a closer look.
