A gilded dome catches the late sun above the white marble of Hazur Sahib, and at dusk the courtyard lamps come on while the sky over the Godavari turns violet. The gold pinnacle stays bright long after the river has gone dark.
Beyond the shrine, Old Nanded runs along the north bank, where small gurdwaras on the ghats each keep a story about the tenth Guru, and the Kaleshwar temple at Vishnupuri looks over a broad reach of river. The climate is tropical savanna, with a scorching dry spring, monsoon rain from June to September and mild, dry winters. A Local Friend knows when to arrive before the morning crowds and when to linger by the water for evening prayers.
