Scooters and e-rickshaws weave down GT Road under a tangle of wires, past shop signs that promise IELTS scores and study visas. Buses pull in from villages across the Malwa plain, and trains stop at Moga station on their way between Ferozepur, Ludhiana and Delhi, so half the town always seems to be heading somewhere.
Beyond the main road, the Nestlé factory still gathers milk from village dairies, and Dhudike, birthplace of Lala Lajpat Rai, sits among wheat fields to the east. Summers are scorching, rain arrives from July to September, and winters stay cool and dry. A Local Friend keeps the day loose, ready to trade a bazaar stroll for a village detour when the mood shifts.
