The name is said to mean "inside the water," a nod to the land held between the Beas and Sutlej rivers. In the old city that idea shrinks to one wide tank at Devi Talab Mandir, where a gold-covered shrine stands at the water's edge and doubles itself in the still surface.
Away from the temple, workshops in the old bastis stitch footballs and shape hockey sticks, and Model Town market fills up in the evening. Farther out, boats drift across Kanjli Wetland near Kapurthala. Summers are fierce, monsoon rain comes in July and August, and winters turn chilly. A Local Friend can turn a scattered list of temples, workshops and markets into a day that makes sense.
