You walk the length of platform 1 at Kharagpur Junction, and it keeps going. You pass tea stalls and a queue for hot aloo dum, and the far end is still out of sight. The 24-coach Coromandel Express parks its tail on another platform number.
Beyond the tracks, IIT Kharagpur keeps its first classrooms in Hijli Shaheed Bhavan, a former detention camp, and Gole Bazar squeezes shops and a Durga temple into a few lanes. Summers are hot and humid, the monsoon soaks the town from June to September, and winters are short and mild. When your plans run out, a Local Friend picks the next stop, from a sweet shop to the painters' village at Naya.






