A morning hello in Hanumangarh might be Ram Ram or Sat Sri Akal, depending on who lifts the shutter next door, since Rajasthani, Punjabi and Bagri share the same streets. Neighbors catch up on the platforms at Hanumangarh Junction, and families meet in the shade outside the gate of Bhatner Fort, whose brick walls have long watched the Ghaggar.
Beyond the fort, canal water turns the flat country green with cotton and rice, and the Harappan mounds of Kalibangan sit a short drive away along the river. Summers are fierce and dry with brief monsoon rains, and winter days turn mild and sunny. A Local Friend walks beside you through the bazaar, matching your steps instead of pulling you along.
