Before the heat climbs on a summer morning, walkers are already circling Bindu Sagar beneath the sandstone spires of the old temple town. By midday the streets retreat into shade, and monsoon rain washes the stone of the Lingaraj Temple dark.
Beyond the temples, the Khandagiri caves look back over the city from a rocky hill, Ekamra Haat sells handloom and palm-leaf crafts, and evening stalls serve dahibara aloo dum. May is fiercely hot, rain falls from June into October, and winter brings a short, mild spell. A Local Friend reads the sky, the menu and the streets for you, knowing which temple suits the cool hours and which snack belongs after dark.
