Women potters at Dada are already slapping wet clay into water jars before the sun climbs over Okelele. By noon the lanes of Oja Oba are loud with traders calling out beside the Emir's palace. After dark, roadside pans sizzle with wara, a soft local cheese fried until golden.
Beyond the old town, the granite dome of Sobi Hill rises over the rooftops, and weavers still turn out aso-oke cloth on simple looms. Dry, hot months run from November to March, when harmattan dust softens the sky, and the rains settle in from April to October. When your own list runs dry, a Local Friend picks the next stop, maybe a weaver's yard or the hilltop at sunset.
