Surabaya Vaganza: the May night parade of lights

Hotel Majapahit opened in 1911 as the Oranje Hotel and was renamed Hotel Yamato under Japanese rule. On 19 September 1945 young Surabaya activists tore the blue stripe from the Dutch flag flying over it, a moment that came before the Battle of Surabaya. It is a recognised heritage landmark and still a working hotel…

Every May, around the city's anniversary on 31 May, Surabaya holds the Festival Rujak Uleg, where teams grind rujak in giant stone mortars and hand portions to the crowd. Costume parades and stage acts run alongside. The venue moves from year to year, from Kembang Jepun to City Hall to the expo centre, so check the…

Pasar Pabean sits in an old market building between the Chinese and Arab quarters and is known for spices and fresh fish. Walk the dim alleys for sacks of spices, piles of chillies and a whole row selling garlic. Go midweek when it is less crowded, and wear closed shoes because the passages are tight and busy. Think…

The Suroboyo Bridge at Kenjeran is an 800 m arch laid out as a circle with a fountain at its centre, facing the Madura Strait. Go in the morning or late afternoon for softer light and sea views, then stay for the fountain, which looks best after sunset. Weekends bring crowds, so a weekday gives cleaner frames and room…

Sanggar Agung, also called Hong San Tang, stands inside the Pantai Ria park at Kenjeran, where a tall Kwan Im statue faces the Madura Strait. It is still a place of worship for Tridharma followers, so dress modestly and treat the altars with care. Come early in the morning for quiet or late afternoon for the sun…

Surabaya's official Sightseeing and City Tour bus is not a hop-on service. Seats are reserved on the city's tourism ticketing site, where you pick a day and time slot, and tickets are non-refundable. The site also posts notices when the regular bus is out of service for repairs. Check the listing and any notices…

After landing at Juanda, ignore offers of a ride inside the arrival hall and pick one of the set options: the official airport taxi counters in the arrival halls, a ride-hailing car from the marked pickup point, or the DAMRI bus. Grab shows its fare upfront, so there is nothing to bargain over. DAMRI goes mainly to…

Surabaya's football club Persebaya plays home matches at Stadion Gelora Bung Tomo, and popular stands can sell out before match day. Presale often opens first to club members through the official app with a limited quota, so check the club's channels early. Ask which stands are still open, since student categories…