Photograph Laguna de Apoyo from the Catarina viewpoint

The Rubén Darío National Theatre opened in 1969 and is Managua's main stage for concerts, ballet and dance, with a main hall of about 1,200 seats. Check the programme posted at the theatre or ask your host what is on that week, since the line-up changes. Arrive early to find your seat, and look at the foyer and the…

Paseo Xolotlán, the city-run lakefront promenade, holds a scale model of old Managua, miniature churches and replicas of the homes of Rubén Darío and Sandino. It is a quick way to picture the streets that locals still use in directions, the ones lost in 1972. Pair it with the neighbouring Puerto Salvador Allende…

Ricardo Legorreta's Metropolitan Cathedral, completed in 1993, is a building to see from inside: its 63 domes bring daylight and ventilation into the nave, and the circular chapel of the Sangre de Cristo image is lit by candles and colour. Go in daylight to see the domes working, walk quietly and keep photos discreet…

The Mercado de Artesanías, the old market in Masaya's old town, sells paintings, woodwork, masks and other handicrafts from across the country. A small folklore museum inside shows traditional dances, instruments and clay and wood crafts, which helps you judge what you are buying. Visit on a day trip from Managua…

Mercado Oriental is Managua's giant working market, and travel guides and government advisories name it among the places where theft and robbery are common. Most visitors do their souvenir shopping elsewhere. If curiosity wins, go in daylight with someone who knows it well, leave jewelry and spare cards at the hotel…

Entry to Nicaragua includes a small tourist card fee, paid in US dollars cash on arrival, so have bills ready before you reach the immigration desk. Your passport should be valid for at least six months, and officers can ask for an onward ticket. Put the fee cash, passport and onward booking in one easy pocket, so the…

Managua taxis have no meters, so a street-hailed cab means haggling when you are most hurried, and official advisories flag unauthorised taxis as a risk. Ask your hotel or restaurant to call a registered radio taxi, or use a trusted ride app if you have one. Agree the fare before getting in, say whether it is in…

Masaya Volcano National Park, Nicaragua's first, sits on the road between Managua and Masaya and holds the Santiago crater, which keeps releasing gas and can show a red glow after dark. Locals time the visit for late afternoon to catch the sunset first and the glow after. Crater access depends on gas and safety…