Order mufete on the Ilha: grilled fish with palm-oil beans

The blue-and-white candongueiro minibuses are cheap and handy for a short daytime hop in the inner city, though fares rise when it rains or traffic is heavy. After about 20:00, take a taxi arranged by your hotel instead, since taxis are widely seen as the safest choice. Official advice also warns against sharing rides…

Luanda has a high level of crime, and official advice singles out cash withdrawals because people can be followed from the machine. Use a hotel or pre-arranged car for the trip to the bank, take only what you need for the day and leave the rest in the hotel safe. Keep a low profile with plain clothes and no flashy…

Do not use cameras, binoculars or GPS devices near government buildings, and expect military sites such as the São Pedro da Barra fortress to need authorisation. Street photography can also draw the attention of the authorities, who may confiscate a camera. Keep your shots to the bay, beaches and public landmarks, and…

Checkpoints and spot checks are common, and visitors without ID can face an on-the-spot fine. Carry a certified or authorised copy of your passport photo page and leave the original in the hotel safe, because police may hold an original until a fine is paid. Outside Luanda and the provincial capitals, take the…

The Marginal, Avenida 4 de Fevereiro, curves along the bay with the port clock tower at one end and the old fort at the other, so a late-afternoon walk gives sea views and boats in the foreground. As the light fades the Fortaleza de São Miguel is lit up and frames well from the avenue. Point the camera at the water…

The Benfica craft market sits just south of the city centre in Belas and sells carved animals, the Thinker statue, Mwana Pwo masks, paintings, jewellery and textiles at lower prices than downtown shops. Bargaining is expected, and a guide helps you find the better stalls. Skip anything made of ivory. Go by day with a…

Quiçama National Park lies about 70 km south of Luanda and is described as Angola's only functioning national park. Civil-war poaching nearly wiped out its animals, and elephants and other species were brought back from 2001, so sightings are rewarding but never guaranteed. Part of the area became a UNESCO biosphere…

Cabo Ledo, about 120 km south of Luanda, has a long and gentle left-hand point break that suits surfers of all levels and is often described as good for learning. Crowds are very light, and beach rules ban fires, loud music, generators and electric lights, and ask you to take your rubbish home. The dry season, roughly…