Ogobagna, the January week of Dogon culture in Bamako

During Ramadan Bamako slows down by day. Restaurant traffic drops by more than half and some owners close for the month, and eating, drinking or smoking in public in daylight can cause offence. Plan daytime meals ahead, eat discreetly at your hotel or at a place that clearly serves guests who are not fasting, and…

Bamako is photogenic, but some subjects need care. Government buildings, uniformed officials, embassies and the airport are best left out of your frame, and many people expect to be asked before they appear in a picture, especially women, children and religious leaders. Ask market vendors first, ideally after buying…

Taxis in Bamako rarely run a meter you can count on, so the fare is whatever you settle before the car moves. Say your destination clearly, agree the price first and ask your hotel or a local contact what is fair for that trip. Quality varies from driver to driver, so look at the vehicle before you climb in. Airport…

The Maison des Artisans goes back to 1932 and is a craft centre where you can watch leatherworkers, jewelers, wood sculptors and weavers at work. Look for ebony statues, djembe and balafon, and bogolan mud-dyed cloth. Bargaining is expected, so negotiate firmly but respectfully and ask the maker what each piece means…

Siby sits about 50 km southwest of Bamako, roughly an hour by road, and is the classic day out for rocks, caves and waterfalls. Climb to the natural Kamadjan arch for a panorama and its legend tied to a companion of Sundiata Keita, then cool off at a waterfall. Hire a local guide through the Siby tourist information…

The National Park of Mali covers 103 hectares in a canyon under the Koulouba plateau, next to the National Museum. It has jogging, fitness and cycling tracks, a botanical garden with a medicinal plants area and play spaces for children. Go early in the morning or late in the afternoon, when the paths are cooler, and…