Dzalanyama Forest: a miombo walk outside Lilongwe

Lilongwe is spread out, and transport gets hard to find late in the evening, so line up a return ride before you go out for dinner or music. Use a reputable taxi booked through your hotel or the venue and agree the fare first. Avoid walking alone at night or through quiet streets, even for short distances. Leave…

The Kamuzu Mausoleum on Presidential Way is a marble and granite memorial to Malawi's first president, Hastings Kamuzu Banda, completed in 2006 next to the parliament buildings. Four pillars carry the initials of his guiding principles: Unity, Loyalty, Discipline and Obedience. Go by taxi in daytime and pair it with a…

Lilongwe Craft Market in Area 13 has stalls selling wooden sculptures, paintings, textiles, jewelry and souvenirs, and bargaining is expected. Start with a warm greeting, ask the price, then counter with a fair offer rather than a lowball, since the aim is a price that still supports the craftsperson. Walk the whole…

Mandasi, light fried doughnuts, are a common Malawian street breakfast, sold by vendors at Lilongwe's markets. Breakfast is usually light, often tea with bread or mandasi, and the big meal comes at lunch. Buy from a busy stall where batches come out hot and eat them the same hour. Carry a little change so the vendor…

Skip the hotel buffet once and eat where Lilongwe workers do, at a bwalo, a simple open-air or covered eatery serving nsima with relish such as beans, fish, beef or pumpkin leaves. Old Town Market stalls and the local cafes in Area 2 are the easiest places to start. Pick a busy stall with fast turnover, order food…

Street money changers work near the big shopping complexes in central Lilongwe, and Malawi's authorities have cracked down on illegal forex trading in the capital and Blantyre. Changing cash on the pavement means dealing outside the law and invites trouble. Use a bank or licensed bureau, ideally inside a mall, and…

Thefts from visitors in Malawi cluster around main bus stations, and crowded markets in Lilongwe have pickpockets too. Carry only the cash you need for the day, keep your phone out of back pockets, and leave passports and spare money in your lodging safe. Settle where you are going before you walk into a busy bus…

Malawi has had repeated fuel shortages, with long queues at stations in Lilongwe and trips between towns made harder. If you plan a day trip beyond the city, confirm with your driver or lodge that fuel is already secured before you set out. Keep a spare day in your schedule and book a driver in advance instead of…