Do not count on cards: bring cash

Beyond the brass trays on the city page, the Old City souks sell carpets, pottery, textiles and souvenirs, and markets in Libya also carry silver, spices, henna and Tuareg scarves. Handle items, compare a few stalls and ask the seller about origin. Libya has strict rules on goods entering and leaving the country, so…

Libya has strict rules on photography. Pictures of military or police personnel and installations can bring serious trouble, and permission is needed near military facilities. The Old City lanes, courtyards and seafront are the safer frames, so keep your camera down near checkpoints and official buildings. If unsure…

Short-stay visitors in Libya must register with the police within a week of arriving, and the host company or travel agency usually arranges it. Missing it can mean a fine on departure. Ask your hotel at check-in who handles registration, and confirm before checkout that your passport will be presented for the exit…

During Ramadan, locals avoid eating, drinking, smoking or chewing gum in public in daylight, including in the car. Save snacks for your hotel and expect many cafés to change their hours, so ask staff or your host before planning lunch. Energy dips in the late afternoon, so schedule sights in the morning and meet after…

This restored eighteenth-century merchant house in the Old City has an open courtyard with a central fountain, mosaic-covered walls and rooms furnished with Karamanli-era costumes and furniture. It shows how a wealthy Tripoli family lived, which the mosques and souks cannot. Ask locally about opening days before you…

Libyan tea is served in small glasses in three rounds, brewed without sugar at first so a yellowish foam forms on top. The last round often comes with boiled peanuts or almonds, and some hosts add mint or basil. Accept the cup when it is offered and plan time to sit, since a proper pour is a slow, social ritual…