Order rock goat grilled or steamed with lemongrass

Ba Vì National Park lists a separate permit for photo and video shoots, charged per group and per day on top of the entry ticket. Casual snapshots are a different matter, but wedding, couple and crew shoots at the ruined church are where a charge may appear. Ask at the ticket office before you carry equipment up, and…

Bus 74 from Mỹ Đình and bus 214 from Yên Nghĩa end at Xuân Khanh, still a way from the park. From there, take a taxi or xe ôm, or change to the local route 110. Agree the fare before getting on a xe ôm, check the route on a transit app and leave the park early so you are not hunting for a ride after dark.

The Ba Vì park road climbs through many sharp bends and hairpins, and fog is common between about 400 and 1,100 metres on cold days and in the evening. There are no repair shops along the way and shops are scarce. Check brakes and fuel before the climb, carry food and water and start early on clear days.

Đồng Mô lake lets you sleep in a stilt house or a rented tent on its lakeside lawns, with BBQ and picnic sets for rent. It suits a one-night trip with the Ba Vì foothills nearby. Book ahead for weekends, bring insect repellent and a hat, and note that the resort does not rent bicycles or motorbikes.

A mountain retreat on Ba Vì was built on the foundations of an old French resort, blending colonial and northern Vietnamese styles. It displays archive sketches of the original villas, and the ruins are a short ride away. Book ahead for weekends, ask for a trail map at check-in and plan the ruins for the morning…

Đồng Mô lake offers kayaks, stand-up paddleboards and duck-shaped pedal boats, with lakeside lawns for picnics and camping. Fishing needs a word with the management first. Pick a weekday, because weekends fill up, and avoid rainy days. Confirm any service price before you start to avoid surprises at the end.

The Ngọc Hoa stream trail winds past small waterfalls and bamboo groves and is one of the park's most scenic walks. The park's guardians double as guides on its trekking routes, so ask at the gate for one instead of guessing junctions in the fog. Wear grippy shoes, walk slowly after rain and carry your own food and…

In Vân Hòa, Mường performers line up in two rows in traditional dress and welcome guests with bronze gongs, an ensemble known for its twelve tones. A visit can add a talk on Mường worship customs and a village meal. Performances are arranged for groups, so book through your lodging or a local operator and ask about…