Order luwombo, the royal stew steamed in banana leaves

Speke Hotel on Nile Avenue is one of the oldest hotels in Uganda, built in the 1920s during the colonial period and named after the explorer who reached the source of the Nile. It has kept its colonial character through many renovations. It sits on Nakasero Hill in the middle of the business district, so banks, shops…

Nyege Nyege is a music festival on the River Nile near Jinja, held every year since 2015 with hundreds of artists across several stages. Recent editions ran in November, and the current site is Kalagala Falls with an onsite campsite. It is for adults only. Book transport and a bed early, and check the organisers for…

Each April, Buganda holds a charity run on a Sunday starting at Lubiri in Mengo. Distances have included 5, 10 and 21 km, and the course has passed the Bulange and Kabaka's Lake. Register through the kit points announced beforehand, wear shoes you have already broken in, and expect big crowds plus traditional music…

The Villa, a restaurant and lounge in Bukoto, is one of the places where Kampala's live-band scene plays out, with a band on stage on most days of the week. Local acts such as Janzi Band, Abeeka Band and Vanessa and the Band are named among the crowd favourites. Weekend sets start late, around 10 pm. Check the venue's…

Many market souvenirs in Kampala are not Ugandan: soapstone often comes from Kenya, and some African-look fabric is imported. Compare several stalls, ask where an item was made and by whom, and skip mass-produced pieces. For Ugandan-made goods at fixed prices, the Banana Boat shops in the malls are an option, and gift…

Uganda's oldest cathedral, finished in 1919, crowns Namirembe Hill about 2 km west of the centre, with gardens that photographers like and views back over the city. Skip Sunday mornings, when services fill the building. Photos are fine outside, but indoors restrictions apply and flash is not allowed. Cover up, because…

The Catholic basilica at Namugongo and the Anglican shrine mark where Christian converts were executed in the 1880s, and the site also has a martyrs museum. It is open for visits all year, while the huge pilgrimage crowds gather around 3 June, so pick another week for a quiet visit. Dress modestly and skip flash…

Behind the National Theatre on De Winton Street, this long-standing craft market is a hub for artisans selling handmade crafts. Items often carry no price tag, so start low, compare several stalls and never take the first offer. Bargaining is expected here, though a little less than at the Friday craft market in…