Order dizi the way Tehranis eat it, in two courses

Photography near military and other government installations is strictly prohibited in Iran, and such buildings are often hard to spot. Keep your camera down around anything that looks official or secured, and do not fly a drone, which needs permission from the authorities. When in doubt, skip the shot. Locals also…

In Tehran any car can work as a taxi and most have no meter, so a fare agreed after the ride is a fare you may overpay. Order through a ride-hailing app such as Snapp or Tapsi, which show the price before you confirm and remove the haggling. If you hail one on the street, say the destination and settle the amount…

Opened in 1977 beside Laleh Park, the museum is mostly underground, so follow the spiralling walkway down through its branching galleries. The collection holds more than 3,000 works, from Iranian modern art to Western names, and the garden has sculptures by artists such as Moore and Calder. After 1979 the Western…

In Niavaran at the foot of the Alborz, this 69 hectare park is rocky and hilly rather than manicured. Climb the stairs behind the man-made waterfall for views over the city, then follow the hiking path that continues toward the peak. Take metro Line 1 or a BRT bus to Tajrish Square and finish by taxi. Hikers start…

Tehran prices are often spoken in toman, while banknotes are printed in rials, and one toman equals ten rials. Before paying a taxi, a shop or a café, ask "rial or toman?" and repeat the amount back. Foreign credit and debit cards do not work in Iran, so carry cash, and keep some small notes because small shops may…