Leave Queen Alia by the official taxi kiosk or bus

Abdali is the modern side of central Amman, built around a pedestrian boulevard with cafes and restaurants that is pleasant for an evening walk. It is flatter than the hill neighborhoods and suits a short stay in a contemporary hotel. The trade-off is less old Amman character, so plan a taxi or app ride to the Citadel…

Wild Jordan House on Jabal Amman has an outdoor terrace called Panorama that faces the Citadel and the downtown valley, a good seat for a city photo without climbing a hill. Come about an hour before sunset for soft light on the stone houses, and know that the terrace closes on the coldest winter nights. Book a table…

The nature shop inside Wild Jordan House sells products made by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature, alongside traditional-style crafts by Jordanian craftworkers. It makes an easy first stop for gifts before you try the downtown souks. Pair it with a coffee on the terrace upstairs. Ask the staff which…

Al-Hussein Public Parks is one of Amman's largest green spaces, a hillside of gardens and paved paths where runners and walkers do loops, especially in the evening. Add the Royal Automobile Museum and the Children's Museum, which sit in the grounds, to make a half day. Expect slopes, so set an easy pace. Go on a…

Darat al Funun is a contemporary art centre in six 1920s houses with an archaeological site in its gardens. It is open Saturday to Thursday, closed on Fridays and public holidays, and shut for the whole of August, so check before you climb the stairs. Go on a weekday afternoon to wander the terraced garden and the…

Hashem is a long-running downtown spot near Prince Mohammad Street, open around the clock and busiest at breakfast. Sit down and a plate of onion, tomato, mint and bread arrives free. Then order hummus, moutabel, ful and falafel, and ask for the stuffed falafel filled with onion and sumac. Staff do not always speak…

During Ramadan many restaurants in Amman close in the daytime, though cafes often stay open, and alcohol is hard to find. Carry water and a snack, and eat or drink out of sight of people who are fasting instead of on the street. Sites close earlier and traffic builds before iftar, so be settled before sunset or book a…

The ATM at the airport before the visa counter is known for high fees, and some city ATMs charge too, so take out only what you need for the ride into town. Withdraw the rest at a bank ATM in Amman. If you change cash, count every note in plain view before you walk away. Carry small notes, because taxis, kiosks and…