Ahwiaa: buy stools and drums where they are carved

Kumasi Zoo is Ghana's oldest zoo and sits between Kejetia and the Cultural Centre, so it fits a walking day with the fort. Expect a modest visit with antelopes, baboons, chimpanzees, lions and crocodiles, plus thousands of bats roosting in the trees. Bring water and a snack because there is no eatery inside, and note…

Do not count on a taxi meter in Kumasi. Agree the fare and the exact drop-off before you get in, keep small notes ready, and be firm but polite if the first quote is high. A ride-hailing app such as Bolt shows an upfront fare and a trip record, which is simpler for short central trips. Check the plate and driver name…

Adum is the handiest address for Kejetia, yet guides call it extremely noisy and congested, and traffic around Kejetia and Adum is the pressure point of every trip. For quiet nights, look at Ahodwo, a leafy garden-suburb district between the centre and KNUST with a small cluster of restaurants. Taxis or Bolt cover the…

The central tro-tro station by Kejetia is chaotic, and route maps are not posted, so read the destination signs and ask a mate or ticket seller. Boarding on the ring road avoids the worst of the central jam. Some commuters report being dropped midway and asked to pay again, so ask whether the fare covers your final…

Each July the Centre for National Culture in Bantama launches an Arts and Craft Exhibition that stays open for weeks. Artisans from across Ghana rent stands to show paintings, wood sculpture, beadwork, leather bags, batik and broadloom kente. It is a good way to compare makers before you head to the craft villages…

Owabi Wildlife Sanctuary lies northwest of the city and is known for more than 140 bird species, plus monkeys and antelope. Birdwatching is the main draw, so go early and take a guided walk. Tro-tros run to the Esaase or Owabi stops, then it is a walk or a short taxi. Sources disagree on weekend opening, so call ahead…

Adanwomase is a kente village north of Kumasi that wove cloth for the Asantehene. Start at the Visitor Centre, where you book a weaving tour with a hands-on workshop in spinning, warping and weaving, then browse the village shops. Longer master-weaver sessions, a village tour and an evening drumming show must be…

The Centre for National Culture in Bantama holds the Prempeh II Jubilee Museum, with royal regalia and exhibits on Asante history. Around it, artisans make and show kente, wood carvings, beadwork and leather goods, so you can watch before you buy. Go on a weekday morning when the benches are busy, and ask the makers…