Mi Dominicana es encantadora

The Panteón Nacional on Calle Las Damas is the national mausoleum where the country's most honoured figures are buried, so treat it as a place of quiet respect. Dress modestly, keep your voice low and take photos only where it feels appropriate. Aim for the morning when it is cooler, and ask locally for the current…

Sleeping inside the Zona Colonial means you can walk its quiet streets at sunrise and again after the day groups have left. The Hodelpa Nicolás de Ovando is a historic hotel in the old town and is currently operating, so it works as a heritage stay rather than just a room. Reserve early for December to April, the…

Casa de Teatro is a cultural institution in the Zona Colonial where concerts, jazz and trova nights sit alongside theatre and film. The programme changes weekly, so look at its social media for the current agenda and pick a night with a concert, since other nights are plays or a bar night. Wikivoyage calls the mood…

Noche Larga de los Museos is a Ministry of Culture event in which state and many private museums open free of charge, with late hours on the Saturday, plus concerts, workshops and guided visits. It has focused on the Colonial City and the Plaza de la Cultura, and recent editions fell in May and June. Dates change from…

Parque Mirador Sur is a long linear park in the southwest of the city, where many capitaleños run and walk, and bikes can be rented nearby. Early morning is the coolest time, and the avenue is closed to cars at set hours, so ask on site for the current window. Choose daylight: the government advises against walking…

Bank card cloning is a recognised risk in the Dominican Republic, so keep your card in view whenever you pay and ask for the terminal to be brought to you. Prices are quoted in pesos, and although dollars are accepted in many places, airport exchange rates are not great. Withdraw pesos from a bank ATM during the day…

The Mercado Modelo sits in an art deco building on Avenida Mella, just north of the Colonial Zone. Inside is a maze of small stalls with amber and larimar jewelry, Taino-style ceramics, faceless dolls and other crafts. It is considered safe but can feel overwhelming, so walk one slow loop first, then go back to the…

Motorbike taxis and shared public cars are everywhere, but they are not the easy choice for a first visit. The UK government notes that motoconcho riders can drive badly and may not provide helmets, and that public cars are often uninsured and poorly maintained. Buses and collective guaguas have routes that are hard…