Morning sun hits the coral-stone walls early, and by noon the narrow streets of the Old City empty into shady plazas and cool courtyards. When the sea breeze returns, people climb the ramparts to watch the sun drop into the Caribbean, while palenqueras balance bowls of fruit below.
Beyond the walls, Getsemaní fills its plazas after dark, Castillo San Felipe guards its hill and boats leave for the Rosario Islands. It is hot and humid all year, with dry, breezy months from December to April and heavy showers later in the year. A Local Friend translates the menu, unfolds the map of lanes and senses the mood of each street, so the right arepa de huevo turns up on time.
