Morning comes early on My Khe Beach, with round basket boats resting on the sand and the first swimmers in the water. By midday the caves of the Marble Mountains offer shade, and lunch is mì Quảng with a splash of rich broth. After dark the Dragon Bridge glows over the Hàn River, and on weekends it breathes fire.
Away from the seafront, Hàn Market sells dried fish and coffee, and the Sơn Trà Peninsula climbs into forest above the bay. It stays dry from January to August, then storms and heavy rain arrive until December. When your list runs out, a Local Friend picks the next stop, maybe a seafood shack you would have walked past.






