A wide, dry plateau runs out toward blue hills on the horizon, and the old stone gate of Rawat Fort stands on it like a lone doorway. Back in the old city, the view shrinks to a jeweler's scale in Sarafa Bazaar, bolts of wedding fabric and sacks of dried fruit squeezed into the lanes of Raja Bazaar.
Beyond the bazaars, Saddar mixes old cantonment streets with food stalls, and Ayub National Park keeps lakes and rowing boats on the city's edge. Summers are hot, the monsoon brings heavy rain in July and August, and winter nights are chilly. A Local Friend can take you to the nihari stall their family swears by and tell you its story.






