Getting around is half the story here. Buses, motorbikes and shared rides squeeze through busy streets with a constant chorus of horns, and out on the highways the road itself becomes the show, bending past farmland, desert edges and snow-capped ridges. Everyone seems to know someone going your way, and a seat is usually found.

The climate changes with the map, from hot, humid plains and a summer monsoon to dry western hills and snowy northern winters. Winter and spring suit most journeys. A Local Friend picks the next stop when your plans run out, turning a long ride into a story you will want to tell.