A cannon from a Kipling novel stands outside the city museum, and nobody blinks. Inside the Walled City, a Mughal bathhouse hides behind a row of shopfronts, once lit only by sunlight through holes in its roof. Up at Lahore Fort, the Picture Wall parades tiled elephants and polo players, and the Sheesh Mahal glitters with mirror mosaics.
Evenings drift to the food street in Gawalmandi, where old houses lean over the tables on carved wooden balconies. Summers are scorching, the monsoon soaks July to September, and winters are mild with foggy mornings. A Local Friend can sit you down at a family-run nihari counter inside the old gates, at a table you would never have found alone.






