Brass lamps circle over the Yamuna at Kesi Ghat as the evening aarti begins, and the river catches every flame. Legend says Krishna bathed here after defeating Keshi, a horse demon. Boats wait along the steps, and pilgrims pause between prayers to watch the water turn gold.
Away from the river, narrow lanes squeeze toward Banke Bihari Temple, where e-rickshaws inch through the crowds. Prem Mandir rises in white marble on the edge of town, and the twisted tulsi trees of Nidhivan empty out at dusk. Summers are fierce, rain arrives in July and winter days are mild. A Local Friend turns your long list of temples into a day that makes sense, timed around curtains, crowds and lamps.
