A Carnatic raga once floated from radios across town at dawn, part of a devotional show the singer Balamuralikrishna started at All India Radio Vijayawada while he led the city's music college. On the last night of Dasara, crowds line the ghats as the goddess Kanaka Durga leaves Indrakeeladri hill and rides a swan-shaped boat along the Krishna.
Beyond the temple, the Prakasam Barrage carries traffic across the river and the rock-cut Undavalli Caves wait on the far bank. Summers are fierce, the monsoon follows, and the mild, dry months run from November to February. A Local Friend can turn that scatter of hills, caves and riverbanks into a day that makes sense.






