You join the morning line at the Krishna Matha and wait at a small window in the temple wall. Through it you see the child Krishna, whose idol, legend says, turned to face the poet Kanakadasa. The temple kitchens explain why Udupi hotels serve vegetarian meals all over India.
Past the temple lanes, fishing boats crowd Malpe harbor and ferries cross to the basalt columns of St Mary's Island. Manipal students gather at End Point above the Swarna River. Monsoon rain pours from June to September, while October to March is warm and dry. When the sights run out, a Local Friend picks the next stop, maybe a village festival or a beach your map never showed.
