Up at Chorla Ghat, around 800 meters high, monsoon cloud drifts through the trees and waterfalls spill off the Western Ghats. From that green edge the land drops quickly, past villages and paddy fields, to a coast where Fort Aguada keeps watch from its hill over the sea.
Inland, the Basilica of Bom Jesus stands in Old Goa, Mapusa fills with produce on Friday mornings and the painted houses of Fontainhas line the lanes of Panaji. The weather is tropical, with a dry, sunny season from November to May and heavy monsoon rain from June to September. A Local Friend can sit you down at a family-run table in a village you would have driven straight through.







