Carved walls of the old Rajbari still frame a courtyard where the royal household hosts Barodol each spring, as it has for more than two centuries. A short walk away in Ghurni, potters whose ancestors came at a raja's invitation shape clay farmers and grandmothers down to the last wrinkle. Even dessert has a family tree, with sarpuria made in the lane where its creator first sold it.
Beyond the palace, the Jalangi River curves past the town, and the Catholic cathedral fills up at Christmas. Summers are hot and humid, the monsoon soaks June to September, and winters turn mild and dry. A Local Friend walks beside you through these lanes, sharing what each old wall has seen.
