A red sandstone boulder sits at the foot of the Kaimur hills, and the loudest sound around it is spring water spilling from one rock pool into the next. This is Rupnath, near Katni, where Emperor Ashoka had an edict carved. Beyond it the country opens into forest, fields and pale limestone quarries.
In town, trains from five directions meet at the junction, and Vijayraghavgarh fort waits to the east between two rivers and a hill. May turns very hot, the monsoon soaks the land from June to September, and winters stay mild and dry. A Local Friend can lead you to a favorite quiet ledge at Rupnath and tell you the legend behind its three pools.
