By day, jewelers weigh silver and gold along the narrow lanes of Sarafa Bazaar. After closing, the same street becomes a night food market, griddles hissing past midnight. Close by, the seven-story Rajwada rises over the old bazaars, and Kanch Mandir shows what a Jain merchant and his glass craftsmen could do with mirrors.
Beyond the old town, families snack their way along Chappan Dukan, mornings start with poha, and the Holkars' Lal Bagh Palace sits in its big grounds. Nights stay pleasantly cool even in summer, and the monsoon rains arrive from June to September. A Local Friend reads the stalls, the lanes and the evening crowd for you, so you know which counter to try first.
