One day is enough for Agar itself. Walk around Moti Sagar, visit Baba Baijnath on Susner Road and stop at the Tulja Bhawani cave shrine. Add half a day for the Bagalamukhi Temple in Nalkheda, or combine Agar with Ujjain, which is only about an hour and a half away by road.

Yes, in everyday use they mean the same town. Agar is the town, and since 2013 it has been the headquarters of Agar Malwa district, carved out of Shajapur district. People often say Agar Malwa for both, while Malwa itself refers to the wider plateau region around Ujjain and Indore.

The old temple was renovated in 1883 with money from Lt Col Martin and his wife. As the story goes, she prayed there while his letters from the Afghan war had stopped, and he came home safe. A stone slab at the temple records the gift.