Sand stretches almost bank to bank where the Phalgu passes Gaya, and for most of the year the river hides beneath it. Legend blames a curse from Sita. Above the stone steps stands the Vishnupad Temple, built around a footprint in rock, and families walk down to the riverbed to offer pind daan.
Rocky hills ring the city, and Brahmayoni Hill repays a steep climb with a view over the rooftops. In winter, Ramna Road echoes with tilkut makers pounding sesame. Summers are fierce, the monsoon fills the Phalgu, and winters stay mild and clear. A Local Friend can turn your list of temples, hills and sweet shops into one day that flows.






