Steam rises from biryani handis on Ghoshpara Road, across from the railway station, and the queue outside Dada Boudi grows long before lunch. The dish here is richer and spicier than in Kolkata, with a whole potato in every plate, and families ride the train in just to eat.
Walk west and the town turns green along the Hooghly, where Gandhi Ghat keeps its rose garden and the Annapurna Temple mirrors Dakshineswar. Summers are hot and humid, the monsoon soaks June to September, and winters are mild and dry. A Local Friend decodes the biryani menu, sorts out the train map and reads the mood of the day for you.






